now im on a roll
10.08.2008
We thought we would leave it a little late to head out to Gambaga, to give us a bit of a rest. The first junction at Wale Wale was easy enough to get to but when we got on to the next tro tro which had wooden blocks for tickets we began to realise that things wernt going to be that easy. Once the tickets were issued there was still like a massive three hour wait in the boiling hot sun. Then out of no where the wind picks up and red dust is blowing everywhere. All the people start scrambling about and the tro tro fills up in about five min utes. Then it starts to like torenchal downpour. And the tro tro we are in is hardly waterproof. All the people on the sides (including me) get like soaked from water run of from the roof and then a couple o f seats ahead the window smashes and the poor lady only has this flimsy bit of bamboo sheet to stop the rain coming in. Meanwhile this random german woman that we picked up is sitting in the middle of the tro tro with her umbrella up. Then the woman next to me lends me some material to cover my legs. The generosity that the people have over here never stops to amaze me. I tried to refuse of course but she wouldnt let me. THen after 3 hours on this terrible dirt road we finally reach gambaga. Which is by the way like a whitches camp. The woman who have been accused of witchery or outcasted from there family bassically end up here. It kind of creates a little bit of a moral dilema because like is this a jail or a sanctury. But the woman here are safe and they were so happy to get visitors. IT was just kind of funny having all those bad omans as we were travelling over. We had to visit the chief and like take our shoes of and lower our heads, it was all very cool.
On monday we head of to Paga and I sat on a crocodile, no kidding!! The people of paga view the crocodile as a sacred animal because it helped a chief escape across the river from some enemys way back. Then they fed the croc a live chicken. It was so exciting. Then we visited the slave camp, which was quite different as it was run by african people. The slaves bought in where told that they were going to America to learn a new trade. We got to see the dinning area with the bowls carved out of the stone where the slaves were served there food. There was also the entertainment area which had this large cleared space for dancing and a rock that was hollow in areas creating an interesting noise when struck. Some people came and even played us a traditional song while we danced around where the slaves once stood. Then we saw the action block where people would be traded for guns, tabacco and alchool. And finally punishment rock where the slaves that tried to escape were tied with there head facing the sun. Then we travelled out to Paga Pias palace which was like a big gated community but in a traditional sence. The enterance had a low celing so that the guards could hide behind the wall and thwack any of the slave raiders on the heads as they bent down to enter the palace. We also the "court house" where the accused were made to drink some water and if they were guilty the people would die in the next three days. The coolest thing about the palace was the way that the next chief was chosen. You see the chief got to have ten wives which meant that there was about 50 boys competing for the spot as chief when one died. So each of the sons was allocated a baby chicken. These chickens were then taken by the elders to a random hill and tied down. After three days the one warrior chicken that remained as it had not eaten by the hawks was the one whose owner got to be the chief. The chief to be would then spend the next three months in a room that is entered from the roof as there is no windows or doors while he fights of his demonds. Then an animal that only the chief knows is picked to be sacraficed. And then he becoimes chief.
On tuesday we travel back down into Tamale in order to get the bus into the famous mole national park. But when we get there, there is only standing tickets left. We are told that the station master is at home having a sleep and so we buy the tickets of this other guy. So the bus comes and we all pile on, not bothing to pay to store our bags because we already have the crappy standing seats. All of a sudden this guy starts yelling at us saying that we are on the wrong bus and we starty yelling back that no this is the right bus. And soon this massive crod gathers and everyone is yelling and scraming at each other it was quite fun, but a little bit scary. In the end we just get of the bus and wait for the next one. But it was a pretty tough day. In the evening though we slept on the roof of a traditional hut under the stars.
Nicole and I walked down to the waterhole on wednesday morning to watch all the women fill there buckets. It was really quite a social time for the ladies and balancing that water on thier heads takes alot of skill. The woman would either carry the big bucket on there head fill it up three quaters and then have a smaller bucket to fill it up the whole way. Or one big bucket that a friend would help them lift onto her head. It would be hard work though. We even saw a crocodile in the water hole they were using. Then we had a look round the larabanga mosque which is like the oldest mosque south of the Sahar. Tradition has it that is was founded by a travelling black Arab who threw a spear and where it landed was the site of the mosque. It was like a white building with sticks coming out at right angles. There was four enterences, three with lowered archways so you were forced to bow your head as you entered the mosque as a sign of respect. The forth enterance which was for the chief had like a normal doorway though. The other three was for men, woman and the guy that does the call to prayer all seperate. The guide we had then talked about how the government had taken all the hunting/farm land from the people round here to use as national park with out compensation. In ghana it is a 12 year jail sentance if you are caught poaching an elephant. Then a short cab ride saw us at the national park. The lodge that we were staying at looked over the valley and pretty much the whole national park. And while we were sitting there enjoying the view slash doing our washing this massive elephant walks pretty much right up to where we are staying. So we all run over and check out this beautiful massive thing and realise that the poor fella only has one tusk. We find out later that this usually means that it was lost in battle and these elephants are much more likely to attack. Then we did a game walk in the afternoon and found out that we probably shouldnt have gone so close to the elephant before. ANd saw some more live animal, i think they were like cob and bush buck. Then by the village that the rangers lived we saw all these animals on the rubish dump, like wart hogs and baboons. Its kind of a little bit sad, but i supposew these animals are scavengers. Then in the evening we went night swimming, i seriously forgotten how fun it was.
On thursday morning we took another game walk with the most random people. They were like large german goths. Yeah saw some more game and then we just hung out by the pool for the rest of the day. And we chatted about the bad grammer that the Ghanian people have that we are all sort of picking up on. Have you seen the disthing? (word fusion) It is how much? My stomach is paining me. I should do what? In the evening we slept in the traditional huts again after an amazing feed of yam and stew (oh i want to eat some right now) while we chatted about religon and peoples jadded perseption.
We had to get up at 3am on friday to catch the 3.30am bus out of mole national park. Then we pretty much spent the entire day travelling till we got to Bimbilla in the evening.
On saturday we got up early and prepared ourselves for another travelling day. The tro tro that we were travelling on had goats on the roof. These poor animals were being thrown up there. But i supose if humans travel on the roof then its good enough for goats. On ther way to Hoe Hoe we get pulled over at the police barrier because the motorcycle that is on the roof is not secure enough (never mind about the goats which had moved from the back of the tro tro to the front). And this random farmer gave us this massive bunch of bananas, just to be kind. I mean the generocity here is just amazing. Then this dude behind me asked if I was a Rasta which kind of gives you an indication on how ferral my hair was/still is now. We took a little walk around Hoe Hoe in the afternoon and met the nicest pineapple lady called Joyce and this other really friendly lady called Olympia who had had some volenteers before.
On sunday we spend the whole morning searching for an internet cafe and even follow this like wicked series of signs like a treasure hunt and still manage to find none open. We then spend the day hiking up the highest mountain in Ghana which isnt very high, just under a km, but is pretty steep and the view, which was over Togo was pretty amazing. We took the trip down the mountain a little slowerand chatted to this american grade school teacher who was really kind of cool. When we got back to the hotel we find out that the other girls that were staying at the same place had been robbed so we quick smart changed hotels. It wasnt to bad, I mean it was our first major hick up which you have to expect and it didnt even really happen to us. In the afternoon Lanz and I went on a material shopping spree. And then we had Adams kebabs for dinner. Adams being a massive black street butcher dude who was always up for a laugh.
On monday we checked out the Wli waterfalls which were pretty stunning. To get there we crossed these two little rivers like a billion times but it was really pretty walking through the forest.The falls which were like the biggest in ghana slash maybe even west africa were pretty amazing. We all swam underneath them and the water was like heaps of pressure, really hard. Next to the falls were all these bats on the rock. It was kind of cool, and ever so noisy. We all climbed up the muddy bank to get a better look and slid down on our bums. Speaking of bums, Nicole and I stayed up all evening chatting at the STC bus station and we looked so much like bums that people were offering us a place to stay. Again the generocity here
Tuesday we spent exploring the caves. The toursit centre was this like abandon church in the tiny town. We first had to treck up the mountain first and we learnt a bit of history. In that about 20 of the Ghan/Gwan people fled to these caves and hid for about 100 years from the Ashantis. There was about 6 or 7 cave. With the first cave just being the conference/meeting cave which was just like a boring open cave. The second cave being the spying cave which was like an open cave up a ladder with like a little lookout hole. The sleeping clave which was like a full on enclosed cave that we haad to climb down a ladder to get into. It was really dark and full of bats but i wasnt scared. The chiefs cave was also enclosed and amazingly a couple of degrees colder than the temperature outside. The chief wopuld hide here in times of attack and it even had an escape route to the top of the mountain (which some mountaineering tourists had actually done). Then there was the punishment cave which was another closed cave that was just used as like a cell. And finally the watchtower cave which was huge and went through the mountain. Walking through it was dead set like the lord of the rings and you could clib up to this little window and view the whole valley bellow. Then we had this little swing on the massive swing. Then we trecked down to the waterfall and the guide let us pick some fresh cocca from the trees. It was a really pretty spot to have a late lunch. There was a bit of drama whne we got home as we found out that Nicole had lost her camera at the dodgy hotel and the hotel owner had pissed of to Togo. But we managed to forget about it till the morning and have a fondu party.
On wednesday we had a really nice bus trip back into Accra, right at the front of the bus, thanks to John whom we made friends with. But despite the awesome bus we still manage to break down on the way back to Accra, typical. But fortunatly we get a phone call to say that Nicoles camera maraculously has turned up with the owner of the hotel from togo. Then this dude on the bus starts chatting to me and im suddenly aware how ratty I am and how long it has been since ive had a decent shower.
On thursday we head into swedru so we have a proper chance to say goodbye to everyone. It was kind of wierd cause Lelia was on the bus out to swedru with us. You see Lelia had stayed with the Frimpongs as well so it was funny swapping stories. I gave a massive hug to Seth and Madam Jennifer who had been so great to me this whole time on the trip. It was kind of sad to say goodbye. Back in Accra the six of us had our last supper mean which was like a massive tub of icecream that we just devowered together. It was a little sureal packing for kenya.
On friday we took our bags to the airport to sent all our excess shit home which ended up taking most of the morning and emptying most of our wallets. But we had left it so late that we no longer had much of a choice. It was pretty stressful but we managed quite well in the end. Then all of a sudden I was on a plane to Kenya.
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